The
colleseum
Nearly
as big as the Colosseum of Rome but better preserved and more
sophisticated, the amphitheatre of El Jem has, at all times,
fascinated the laymen as well as the experts. That such a gigantic
edifice was implanted in a setting so radically different from
that of Rome was greatly intriguing for everyone.
This magnificent "Colosseum" taking
root "in the open desert", was it the outcome of
the whim of some emperor longing for crankiness and trying
to challenge logic or to glorify, in his own way and for ever,
the power of Rome? Definitely, we are left today with the
different speculations on the real purpose of such an impressive
architectural work still wrapped in much doubt.
Dwarfing the modest dwellings of the modern township
which seems to hug at its feet, the amphitheatre of El Jem
draws attention to itself as irresistibly as the pyramids
of Egypt, emerging halfway between Sousse and Sfax on the
straight road that unwinds like a steel ribbon in a monotonous
landscape where drowsiness awaits the traveller. As a perfect
symbol of the staggering ascension of the ancient city, the
amphitheatre has completely transformed the soft and monotonous
landscape of the plateau of El Jem. Regarded as one of the
world's marvels, it represents a distinctive mark of Roman
Africa. It has captivated the visitors over the centuries
through its fair proportions, its imposing architecture as
well as its stones's faded gilt and warm hues always shining
in the sun. So much so, an enthusiastic French author wrote,
about one century ago, in "La Revue des deux Mondes":
"It is impossible to say, while gazing at the amphitheatre
of El Jem, that Roman art does not exist".
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